Tao Ran Ju

     The sign on the door said the restaurant opened at 10:30.  We arrived at around 10:25; so we were early.  There were already a handful of people waiting outside.  Looking in through the door the lights were out.  Grace, her parents and I milled around the door till around until 10:35 - still no movement. So we decided to check the door, which was open.  So we walked into the dark dining room.  The light in the kitchen was on.  As we mulled walking back out two people pushed past us.  They looked at us quizzically, but quickly moved on into the kitchen.  The staff had started to arrive. 

We sat down at table on the side; at 10:40 when the wait staff arrived we got menus.  The head chef entered in a white t-shirt and seasoned apron at around 10:45 and the lights turned on. 

The tables were outfitted with tabletop burners, but it was breakfast time and I wasn’t in the mood for hot pot.  The menu other than the hot pot is a hodgepodge reflecting the Taiwanese chef and Yunnanese owner.  We ordered a few things as the restaurant staff got settled.  

Laurent Gras is My Hero

 

Men's Fitness (not a magazine I often read) put out their list for the 25 Fittest Men of 2010; I only know because of a synopsis from Food & Wine.  Laurent Gras, who's meal I've been thinking about for the last month was on the list.  How can anyone have 2% body fat?  How does a chef have 2% body fat? Especially one whose restaurant makes the most perfect little croissants?  These bite sized buttery morsels with hints of salt and rosemary are perfect for a snack on the go.  I can't imagine being in a kitchen filled with these magical mini-breads and being able to resist the temptation to have one . . .or two. . .or a few. 

Laurent is certainly a stronger man than I (in so many ways).  I'm not sure if I'm more impressed by his ability to ride a bike for hundreds of miles or simple resist eating his own food. 

Wandering Goat (Veal) Dinner

We arrived at the Logan Square Kitchen a little after 6:00.  I had been waiting for this dinner ever since Stephanie Izard had started her teasing tweets over two weeks earlier.  Her wandering goat dinners had started last year while she was setting up her restaurant.  But it seemed like I was never going to be able to get in.  How was I supposed to hunt down tickets with locations posted via twitter during the week?  Or win a virtual kitchen stadium battle? This time I got tickets the old fashion way; I paid for them.   

Prettiest food I've eaten this month: L2O - Lamb Tartar

L2O: Lamb Tartar
Originally uploaded by KidItamae

This past weekend, Grace and I went back to L2O for a celebration. The first time we ate there, we were in a tatami room. It was great meal, but it actually left us wondering what the main dining room was like. So we went back, this time in the main room.

What really impressed us again was Laurent Gras' aesthetic. His food is delicate to the eyes and to the palate. The flavors are clean, harmonious and exquisite.

The lamb tartar was almost to pretty to eat. Almost.

The Southern: A Conversation Over Brunch

After a long sleepless night, the FSC eats at the Southern for Brunch. Animesh, Jschus and KidItamae regroup to discuss the meal.

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KidItamae: This is the first time [that I remember, not counting that time I was sleep eating] that I’ve gone out to brunch after a sleepless night at the hospital. So, the memory of the food is a bit hazy, a bit like a vivid dream [after which you wake up full]. I wonder if my stupor enhanced or inhibited my experience? Anyhow, let’s talk about the restaurant, and maybe you can help fill the blanks to my memory.

Restaurant Décor:

Animesh: The interior was made from roughly-hewn wood and stone, all in rectilinear arrangements, as though we were meeting in a rough draft for Fallingwater.

KidItamae: It is rustic and filled with a warm distressed wood. The décor seems like such a departure from the Miami-chic of Chaise Lounge, which seemed like a unique concept in the cold of Chicago. But I suppose this may suit our city better. But it also seems like with all the gastropubs and restaurants serving upscale comfort food have a similar look.

Jschus: I am always a big fan of being able to eat and have my feet dangle off the chair and not touch the floor. And I liked the wood. The bar was nice, modern, and with clean lines.

Drinks:

KidItamae: I didn’t order a drink, but I think it’s fabulous that Jschus ordered a ‘Dirty Peach’. I feel a nickname coming.

Animesh: My Old Fashioned came and it was bitter with cheap grenadine. I took it as warning.

Jschus: I ordered the ‘Dirty Peach’ in hopes that my high school nickname would recur. It was sweet and ok.

Wine-Soaked Steak

My kitchen began to smell familiar, like a ski lodge serving mulled apple cider, or a stall at Kristkindlmarkt serving glühwein. I saw this recipe over a year ago and it has stuck with me ever since. I forget now what aggregation of little forces brought me to take the time to prepare it, but lucky for me.

The recipe is simple: a ribeye marinated in a bold red wine and mulling spices for several days, and then grilled at high heat, sliced, and eaten. It comes from this article by Mark Bittman. Watch the associated video; it tells you all you need to know.

I started with the wine. It calls for Amarone, which I have never seen, but notes that any bold red wine will do. I had some Malbec open, and that's what I used. In to a pot with some sugar. (I believe the sugar does a lot for this dish; don't skimp.) You boil it, then you simmer til it reduces a little (they say 10 minutes). Add the spices: whole cloves, a cinammon stick, grated nutmeg, and citrus zest (it says orange, but I had a lemon). Cool the wine completely, immerse the steaks (I used a Ziploc), refrigerate, and come back in 3 days.

Brioche Strata (Bacon, Ham, Spinach, Onions)

It was my turn to bring something into work in the morning and, as always, I had waited until the last minute to decide what to make.  The decision of what to bring is really the most dubious of tasks and one I take quite seriously. I find myself worrying about what to make.  It's got to be something new, and something relatively easy to transport.  It can't be too similar to what someone else has brought recently.  Oh, and it has got to be fabulous. 

In general, sweets are very popular.   In fact, if it's homemade then it's generally some sort of sweet treat.  The only savory options anyone ever brings are bagels.  Which is in a way strange, since there is nothing inherently 'breakfast' about cookies or brownies. Eventually after a few hours of meditation (with one or two chocolate breaks), I had come to what I thought fulfilled most of my requirements and broke some ground into the savory baking dilemma. - strata.    

**I had always assumed that strata was a savory Italian bread pudding.  Probably something about the way 'stra-ta' sounds (it is so much more fun to say with an Italian inflection).  I was surprised to find (according to Wikipedia, my source of all knowledge) that it is an American invention with the first recipe appearing  in 1902.  Seems questionable to me, but who am I to disagree with the Wiki?